It’s a rainy Saturday afternoon of running errands, together in the car as we exit the supermarket parking lot, I can hear my partner smacking his lips, salivating as he’s just remembered the kilo bag of Dutch black liquorice I’ve stashed in the glove box. “Can I have a droppie?” he asks, his tone opposing the saltiness of the little gummies he’s about to devour in a meticulous, calculated manner.

I began the droppie stash a few months ago, after hearing my partner’s childhood recollections of his oma back in Holland keeping black liquorice in her glove box, supposedly to settle her grandson’s stomachs on the go. As I pull the bulging bag out of my unorganized glove box, I assess the colours, shapes, and coatings of the assorted candies. Canadian-born and raised in the prairies, I haven’t quite developed the love for liquorice like my Dutch family-in-law have (yet). I had only heard of these salty little delights a few months into dating, and haven’t quite formed an appreciation yet. I was very skeptical of the supposed healing remedies these treats provided. After all, aren’t all treats hard on our stomachs, and bad for our overall health? 

My partner’s family immigrated to Canada in the mid-90’s, and brought many Dutch traditions with them. Growing up snacking on menthol, bay leaf, and salt-flavoured liquorice since childhood, their palettes are all well-adapted to the strong and unique flavours these cultural confections provide. After eating 40 droppies you’re hooked, or so says my mother-in-law, who’s pantry is always stocked with a wide variety of Dutch treats imported and purchased from the local Holland Shopping Centre. I tend to pass on the treats, leaving more for those who truly appreciate them. 

Historical Remedies

Lovingly referred to as zwarte goud or black gold, liquorice in the Netherlands goes all the way back to the high middle ages, when Dutch traders brought back hardened liquorice root from Mediterranean trading voyages. Far-off places like Greece and Italy had climates that could produce a remedy to helped with sea-sickness for the long-haul travellers of the early Dutch trading companies. Sailors and traders alike would gnaw on the pulpy, chewy root stems, a raw delight still enjoyed to this day.

Believed to have anti-inflammatory properties, liquorice has been used by many cultures as a remedy for stomach, coughs and respiratory conditions for thousands of years. Liquorice root is used in traditional Chinese medicine. Napoleon used it to settle his nervous stomach, and fed it to his troops to stave off their thirst while in battle. Liquorice root was even found in the tomb of King Tut. Today, liquorice treats sooth scratchy throats, ease tickling coughs—the salty varieties can clear stuffed-up nasal passages—all ailments associated with the cold weather well-known to the Netherlands.

Rooted in historical medicinal remedies, modern-day droppies are easily Holland’s favourite candy, and have a variety of herbal flavours including mint, honey, menthol, anise, eucalyptus, and bay leaf that come in all shapes and sizes. There’s bit-size beehives, pipes, houses, farm animals, witches broomsticks, ovals, diamonds, clown heads, and tiny square crosses, each presenting a different range of flavour and chewiness. The flavours are far from the sickly-sweet North American confection we’re accustomed to; the Dutch like their liquorice salty, an attribute many nationals would claim as addicting.

Throughout the centuries, drop has become culturally significant for Dutch people. Droppies are seen as a symbol of national pride and identity, often shared with visitors to introduce them to a piece of Dutch culture. However, the word “drop” is not a historically Dutch one. Its origins are somewhat contested, however it likely stems from a combinations of languages coming together due to trade. British sailors often used just a droplet of licorice root extract to settle their stomachs.

Through international trade, this practice was adopted by the Dutch, who shortened the “droplet” to drop. Evolving over time, drop is now commonly—and endearingly—referred to as a droppie.

Sticky, Thick Liquid

These days it’s common knowledge that Italy is the birthplace of block liquorice, the pure form extracted from the root. Modern-day Dutch droppies start with block liquorice imported from Italy, Greece, and Spain, some regions in China, and Southern Russia, which is blended with gum Arabic for a tough, chewy consistency. The blended ingredients are cooked down into a sticky, thick liquid when glucose syrup and sugar are added. Providing the hallmark salty flavour, ammonium chloride is also added to the mix. Sometimes modified potato or corn starch provides a substitute for gum Arabic, but this produces a much lower quality candy that dissolves too quickly when eaten.

Popular Varieties

There are many different varieties and styles of Dutch liquorice, each with its own unique flavour and texture. The most popular and well-known type of Dutch liquorice is the soft and chewy variety. While there are more than 150 varieties of this cultural treat, many can be broken down into four main categories; hard and salty, hard and sweet, soft and salty, and soft and sweet. Second most popular, the hard and salty variety is made with a higher proportion of liquorice extract than the soft variety. This type of liquorice is known for its intense liquorice flavour and long-lasting chewiness. It is often sold in large blocks or as small, bite-sized pieces.

In addition to these main types, there are also many specialty varieties of Dutch liquorice that are made with unique ingredients or flavours. Some examples include Salmiak Munten or Salmiak Coins, round flat shapes made with ammonium chloride for a strong, salty flavour, and Dubbel Zout or double salt liquorice, which is made with both ammonium chloride and regular salt for an extra intense flavour. 

One of the most unique and interesting varieties of Dutch liquorice is the so-called "Katja" brand, which is made with a special technique that gives it a unique texture and flavour. The liquorice is made by pouring a hot mixture of liquorice extract and other ingredients onto a cold surface, which causes it to harden into thin, crispy sheets. These sheets are then broken into small pieces and packaged for sale.

Shapes & Sizes

One of the most popular and recognizable shapes of Dutch liquorice is the "drop" shape, which is the traditional and classic shape of Dutch liquorice. These drops come in a variety of sizes and flavours and are often sold in bulk—by the scoop—or packaged in boxes and tins. Another popular shape of Dutch liquorice is the "strop" shape, which is a long and thin rope-like shape. These liquorice ropes come in a variety of flavours and are often sold in large coils or small, bite-sized pieces. In addition to these traditional shapes, there are also many unique and creative shapes of Dutch liquorice that have become popular in recent years. One example is the "letters" shape, which are small pieces of liquorice shaped like letters of the alphabet. These are often used to spell out words or messages, and are a popular choice for children and as gifts. Boerderij or Farm Animals are a soft and salty version formed into a variety of fun shapes including barns, tractors, chickens, wagons, and houses.

In recent years fruit liquorice has become more popular, which is an approachable way to ease the palette into the stronger, more traditional varieties. Commonly found in modern day shops, bulk sections of black liquorice are now accompanied by a wide variety of other fruity confections, ranging from liquorice and wine gum combinations, to soft and pink, chewy pigs heads. 

Treats for Generations to Come

With the vast selection of traditional and new treats to sample, there’s really a droppie to delight any palette. As I scoop a mix of coins, monkeys, ropes, chalks, and dots, I add hard raspberry suckers, sweet fruity klompen (or clogs), and wign gummen or wine gums to the growing sweet and salty mix. The kids and I typically stick to those sweet and soft candies adored by our North American palettes, but hopefully someday they’ll be curious enough to chomp down on a dubbel zout, and keep this uniquely Dutch cultural tradition alive for generations to come.